If you have hidden (built-in) gutters, then you probably have or will have "hidden gutter nightmares". Taking 5 minutes to read the BLOG (above) may save you tens of thousands of dollars before you purchase a home or hire someone to "fix" your hidden gutters.
The photos below show how we are removing the hidden gutters on this home and replacing them with Nordic Steel half round gutters. We rebuilt the front porch hidden gutter out of stainless steel and welded together.
Although copper hidden gutters can last a long time if built properly, we have often found that they are too easily damaged by falling slate or "handymen" ... or roofers walking in them and over stressing soldered seams. Usually we find that expansion joints were not planned or built properly and so the soldered seams fail. Replacing hidden gutters is an expensive project that generally requires scaffolding. So, we recommend removing them when feasible and replacing them with attractive half-round gutters. If we have to keep hidden gutters, we build them out of fully welded 11 and 14 gauge stainless steel so that they will survive the abuse that future painters, roofers, and handymen dish out for generations.
The photos below show how we are removing the hidden gutters on this home and replacing them with Nordic Steel half round gutters. We rebuilt the front porch hidden gutter out of stainless steel and welded together.
Although copper hidden gutters can last a long time if built properly, we have often found that they are too easily damaged by falling slate or "handymen" ... or roofers walking in them and over stressing soldered seams. Usually we find that expansion joints were not planned or built properly and so the soldered seams fail. Replacing hidden gutters is an expensive project that generally requires scaffolding. So, we recommend removing them when feasible and replacing them with attractive half-round gutters. If we have to keep hidden gutters, we build them out of fully welded 11 and 14 gauge stainless steel so that they will survive the abuse that future painters, roofers, and handymen dish out for generations.
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We slope the new gutters 1/16" to 1/8" per foot to the downspout and hammer the gutter lip gently over into the new opening. This technique (zero lip at the opening) encourages debris to go down the downspout and not create a dam to catch more debris. It's much better if gutters can drain completely ... unless you love mosquitos. We also installed a gutter clean out in the downspout at the ground level.
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We chose to build the radius section out of stainless steel and fully weld the sections watertight. The bottom is 11 gauge (1/8" thick) and slopes 1/8" per foot to each downspout to promote drainage. The sides are 14 gauge (3/32") and the top pieces are 16 gauge (1/16"). The front lip is 3/16" x 1.5" stainless steel flat bar. Some of the wood crown molding were also replaced.
We chose this construction technique over soldered copper for strength and longevity. Copper could work, but most likely future workers would dent it, walk in it, and over stress the soldered joints. We often see copper hidden gutters fail within a couple years due to poor expansion and contraction allowances, workmanship, and abuse from handymen. This stainless gutter should look the exact same 100-200 years from now.
We chose this construction technique over soldered copper for strength and longevity. Copper could work, but most likely future workers would dent it, walk in it, and over stress the soldered joints. We often see copper hidden gutters fail within a couple years due to poor expansion and contraction allowances, workmanship, and abuse from handymen. This stainless gutter should look the exact same 100-200 years from now.
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Expansion and contraction of each 90 degree section was calculated to be 3/16" of an inch (for each 90 degree section) over the temperature changes expected. So, we built an expansion joint and the entire gutter system "floats" and is free to move with the aid of our radius'd 16 gauge stainless clips (not shown) which wrapped around the 1/4" rod along the top edge. We designed a special termination system for the EPDM so that it would simply wrap over the front lip and become clamped. This eliminates potential ponding on the EPDM. The gutter also increases in depth at about 1/16" per foot as it slopes to the downspout from the expansion joint. All parts are #304 stainless steel.
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Video showing how the gutter will be secured, allowed to expand/contract, and how the membrane will be clamped once it wraps over the 1/4" round bar lip.
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The new Nordic Steel half round gutter is installed and the downspout box is given new life. Almost done with the trim repairs in this photo.