For some time, we've regularly posted tips and techniques to FB, Instagram, YouTube. For the benefit of our enviable non-social media colleagues, a few are added here, as well. If you have a question, are interested in training, or would like a video on a specific access challenge, don't hesitate to call us. For more detailed safety videos, visit our ROOFTOP SAFETY VIDEO SERIES page.
The simplest system that eliminates the fall hazard is generally the best system. Here, I'm using Petzl's Grillon properly (keeping my rope tight to an OSHA compliant anchor point above me) to eliminate the fall hazard completely.
Benefits of using many different color ropes on roofs.
Note: All the ropes in this video except one are ANSI rated ropes with a sewn termination on one end.
Note: All the ropes in this video except one are ANSI rated ropes with a sewn termination on one end.
This clip shows my position one hour after arriving. I don't climb unless I have fall protection, even for 1st ascents. I used a BigShot Slingshot to shoot a bean bag over the roof and pull my 1st ascent line into place. Set up my access ladder with stand-offs. Duct taped my ridge hook and put that ladder in place, ascended and added the red line into our existing V-5 permanent anchor for the primary fall protection line. Next, I'll add a ridge rope protect to the red line and remove the green line. Then it's time to get to work.
This clip shows how our V-5 permanent anchor is capped (once the job is complete). However, I just installed this anchor so we can use it for fall protection as we reflash this leaking chimney. The anchor remains so that it is available for use the next time the roof or chimney need attention. Generally, I install them on the rear of the house, a couple feet below the ridge. Notice the use of my STERNAL FALL ARREST rings. Special training is recommended before switching to this technique.
Build in strategic walkways at transition points to help future workers not walk on the slate and destroy the roof.
Instead of a ridge hook (which I abhor), I've cantilevered a ladder section and use slings.
This is a fairly standard practice of ours now when reflashing chimneys
This is a fairly standard practice of ours now when reflashing chimneys
Use of slings for speedily moving about, and sling ladders upside down for foot comfort.
Best practices for work positioning (when installing and removing a temporary anchor actually exposes you to more risk).
Use of a work positioning device to free up both hands to do work while at the top of a ladder.
Attic inspections can be extremely dangerous. The insulation and ceiling below may not be safe to step on, and it's 50' to the Sanctuary floor.
We "re-make" vent stacks out of stainless steel (painted black) instead of leaving cast irons pipes sticking through the roofs. This is fairly easy (requires some welding) and installs just like a piece of slate (requiring no flashing whatsoever).
Using the ProTraxion to haul buckets of mortar to the eve of the roof saves a lot of work and risk. Once you begin pouring a new chimney top, speed becomes important and I utilize two ropes.
Petzl's Protraxion (progress capture pulley) makes it much easier for one person to carry awkward or heavy items onto the roof.
The ASAP mobile fall arrestor's centrifugal "trigger" is activated by quick acceleration in a single direction. Back up knots are the best way to assure you don't go over the eve of a roof during a slow slide.